Hi Gents,
When we had the big blow earlier this week in Sydney, I damaged the forward hatch. The hatch was parted 2 inches for ventilation and the gust slammed it open on the deck.
Has anyone had one repaired? Worth it? Can you recommend anyone in Sydney?
My other alternative is to buy a complete new one, approx $650.
Many thanks,
Evan
There are a couple of ads in the Afloat magazine for hatch glass replacement; mighty be worth contacting the advertisers and seeing what they can do.
I think I paid about $400 to be supplied piece of smokey 1/2" acrylic (cut to size) to replace an old crazed Passport Hatch. More expensive than I expected.
easy to replace 1/2" acrylic the price Jolene paid is what I pay for a full sheet from sheet traders in Brisbane im sure there will be a similar supplier near
If you are anywhere near Gosford go see Fairlight Plastics on Manns Road, they'll cut polycarbonate to size.
I don't have their phone number, if you find it give them a call. They are very helpful.
I'm not sure if it's acrylic or polycarbonate, assumed it would be acrylic.
Not to confident about getting it cut and replacing the glass myself, due to the rubber seal, etc and getting it leak free.
I'm not sure if it's acrylic or polycarbonate, assumed it would be acrylic.
Not to confident about getting it cut and replacing the glass myself, due to the rubber seal, etc and getting it leak free.
Confidence is gained by attempting to the job yourself and if you are not happy with the result pull it apart and try again till satisfaction is achieved.
What size piece is needed for the job? Bunnings sell polycarbonate sheet.
www.bunnings.com.au/suntuf-400-x-400-x-12-5mm-clear-palsun-polycarbonate-sheet_p1010485
Don't be scared of cutting acrylic. It cuts well with a jigsaw. It does ball up a little and melt but you back off the speed a bit too. I use Fixtech window sealant and it is good stuff for sealing. Like others have said, getting perspex cut puts me into the retail price group. If I buy a whole sheet I get to save heaps but if it is just one job that is a stretch. Maybe you can replace all your hatch clears at the same time. Make a set of companionway hatches too to let in the light when it is raining.
Drilling the holes for the handles is the one area I would be careful. Don't use sharp bits - maybe an abrasive bit is best but I don't have one - but a sharp metal bit will bite into the plastic and chip the edges. The edges will be hidden by the handle but it is best to be forewarned. I use older blunter bits to drill holes but the abrasive bit would be best.
it will be 12 mm acrylic as evidenced by the crazing if you get polycarb the price will be astronomical
it will be 12 mm acrylic as evidenced by the crazing if you get polycarb the price will be astronomical
$45 for 400x400 at Bunnings, hence my question about what size is required because I certainly don't think that $45 is astronomical.
it will be 12 mm acrylic as evidenced by the crazing if you get polycarb the price will be astronomical
$45 for 400x400 at Bunnings, hence my question about what size is required because I certainly don't think that $45 is astronomical.
wow didn't believe you looked it up that is a very good price though pretty sure it will be 12mm
$45 for 400x400 at Bunnings, hence my question about what size is required because I certainly don't think that $45 is astronomical.
wow didn't believe you looked it up that is a very good price though pretty sure it will be 12mm
it's 12.5mm
I recently replaced my windows, sourced acrylic off ebay, 10mm clear, two half sheets for $175 delivered from Victoria. If you are DIY then get a pendulum jig saw ($40 from Bunnings) and a medium to coarse blade. As K said above don't rush it, the idea is to create chips not melt the acrylic. The holes could be done with spade cutter again slow speed. I finished the edges with a rasp and worked down to 600 wet and dry. I also used Fixtech for the sealant. Hope this helps.
Polycarbonate doesn't crack or split when drilled or sawn like acrylic can.
Poly has better impact resistance, was used in bullet proof vests for some time before Kevlar and was also accepted under the USL code for commercial vessels windows. Lexan was a trade name once. The ex pusser birdy's on here can probably vouch for its use on helo's and other aircraft.
Polycarbonate doesn't crack or split when drilled or sawn like acrylic can.
Poly has better impact resistance, was used in bullet proof vests for some time before Kevlar and was also accepted under the USL code for commercial vessels windows. Lexan was a trade name once. The ex pusser birdy's on here can probably vouch for its use on helo's and other aircraft.
Great thanks, polycarbonate it is then, when I get around to replacing a hatch lens and port lenses. I'll check the Bunnings stuff out LooseChange, thanks for the tip?
Has anyone replaced the handles an locking fittings on a hatch? I have to replace the polycarbonate in a couple of hatches an the seals on the handles look a bit tired as well.
Has anyone replaced the handles an locking fittings on a hatch? I have to replace the polycarbonate in a couple of hatches an the seals on the handles look a bit tired as well.
I had to pull apart the handles for repairing the lock on the Vetus hatch. It was quite easy and other brands looks similar. So the challenge would be in sourcing the parts.
Has anyone replaced the handles an locking fittings on a hatch? I have to replace the polycarbonate in a couple of hatches an the seals on the handles look a bit tired as well.
I had to pull apart the handles for repairing the lock on the Vetus hatch. It was quite easy and other brands looks similar. So the challenge would be in sourcing the parts.
I have replaced the handle seals in Lewmar ocean hatches, they are just thick o-rings. So easily sourced from a bearing shop, once sized. However the plastic in a Lewmar hatch has a rebate all around the outer edge, that the seal fitS over, the seal being a Chanel section. The plastic looks to be cast, not cut or machined. So Lewmar might not be easy to replace the plastic in, unless your handy with a router?
cheers Richard
Polycarbonate scratches more easily than acrylic. Rather than crazing it turns cloudy with age. So you have to decide which features are more important for your application.
Acrylic has better UV protection , Poly is cheaper but as already been said will scratch easier and become affected by UV .
I m just about to do mine with Acrylic , I m using a Company called Industrial Plastics in Brisbane
Acrylic has better UV protection , Poly is cheaper but as already been said will scratch easier and become affected by UV .
I m just about to do mine with Acrylic , I m using a Company called Industrial Plastics in Brisbane
I always thought polycarbonate was much stronger than acrylic. Was I wrong?
I always thought polycarbonate was much stronger than acrylic. Was I wrong?
Acrylic has more tensile strength whereas Polycarbonate has more impact resistance.
Acrylic has better UV protection , Poly is cheaper but as already been said will scratch easier and become affected by UV .
I m just about to do mine with Acrylic , I m using a Company called Industrial Plastics in Brisbane
I always thought polycarbonate was much stronger than acrylic. Was I wrong?
As Looschange said above , Poly have a far higher impact resistance , but the UV and scratch resistance of Acrylic gives it the edge for hatches