Film from the kite: mount, angle, no fog
In short
A small foam mount on the centre strut points a GoPro straight down at you, so you get the classic looking-back-at-the-rider kite shot.
Keep it light, angle the lens to beat the strut lean, and dry-store the camera between sessions so it never fogs mid-run.
What you'll build
A cheap, home-made strut mount you can also strap to your forearm, plus the setup tricks that keep the footage sharp.
The best kite angle looks back down at you. A camera on the centre strut sees the rider, the water and the whole arc of the session in one frame.
That view sells the sport better than any handheld clip, and it costs almost nothing to rig if you have a few offcuts of foam.
You can buy a commercial wrist or strut mount, but a shaped block of foam does the same job and lets you tune the exact angle you want.
Shaping the strut block
Start with leftover foam. Cut a block that wraps snugly around the centre strut so it cannot rotate or slide once it is strapped down.
Set an FCS fin plug into the block so the camera clicks into a standard fitting rather than being taped on and trusting luck.
Angle that plug slightly forward of vertical. The strut sits at a lean in flight, so a straight plug would point the lens off into empty sky.
During construction
Work slowly and glue in a ventilated space. Foam glue fumes are strong, so keep a window open and take breaks rather than rushing the build in one sitting.
Test the fit on the strut before the glue fully cures, so you can still adjust the angle while the block is workable.
"Invest a couple of hours, keep the fumes out of your face, and you can be filming from your own kite this weekend."
Beating fog and dropouts
Fogging is the footage killer. Store the camera in a small ziplock bag with a silica gel sachet between sessions so the internals stay dry.
A dry camera going into the housing is far less likely to mist over once the cold water hits the outside of the case.
Expect the odd second of dropout when you slash hard across a wave lip. It is normal for the mount to flex under load, and the clip recovers on its own.
The forearm option
The same block works on your arm. Strap it to your forearm and you get a moving, first-person angle without touching the kite at all.
Switching between strut and forearm on the same rig means you can vary your shots across a session without carrying extra hardware.
Before you commit to a shoot, line up a solid breeze on the wind forecast so the kite sits steady and the footage stays smooth.
Questions & Answers
Will the mount unbalance my kite? A small foam block and a compact camera add very little weight and sit close to the centreline. You may notice a touch more inertia in fast loops, but for normal riding the effect is minor and disappears once you are used to it.
Why put the plug at an angle instead of straight up? The centre strut leans back in flight rather than standing vertical. A plug set straight to the strut would aim the lens above the horizon, so angling it forward brings the view back down onto the rider and the water.
How do I stop the footage dropping out? Most dropouts come from hard impacts flexing the mount, and they clear by themselves. Keeping the camera dry, the mount rigid, and the straps tight reduces them, but the occasional lost second in heavy conditions is normal.
Should I check my strut diameter first? Yes. Kite struts vary in thickness, so measure yours before you cut the foam or buy any commercial adaptor, otherwise the block may sit loose or refuse to clamp at all.